During a stay in Camargue in May 2024, I had the chance to visit Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer just a few weeks before the famous Gypsy Pilgrimage. Even though the pilgrims had not yet invaded the town, I could feel the fervor surrounding the Black Virgin, a statue of Saint Sara, the patroness of the Gypsies. I would like to share with you the memory of this memorable experience.
For all those who have never visited Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer or even the Camargue before, it seems to me necessary to specify that this municipality in the Bouches-du-Rhône, considered the capital of the Camargue, is the setting for one of the most beautiful pilgrimages in France.
Every year in May, travelers come by the thousands from all corners of Europe to honor Sainte Sara, the patroness of the Gypsies. During this gathering filled with great fervor, the statue of the Saint is carried in solemn procession to the sea.
The procession to the sea marks the pinnacle of the Gypsy Pilgrimage, an event that lasts about ten days in total. During this period, pilgrims line up in the crypt of the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer to kiss the statue of their Black Virgin.
For my first stay in the Camargue, it seemed essential to visit its capital. The modest-sized municipality is located at the very end of the Camargue delta, nestled between the two branches of the Rhône.
As soon as you arrive, it is easy to find the emblematic monument of the village; I am of course referring to the Church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer. Its spectacular bell tower wall is a landmark that attracts all eyes and draws in crowds of visitors almost magnetically.
It is in the shelter of this fortified Romanesque church dating from the 12th century that the statue of Saint Sara is kept, outside of pilgrimage periods. Visiting the crypt that houses the Black Virgin of the Gypsies is a must for any newcomer. I had been told it was a tourist attraction not to be missed, but I did not expect to experience something so unique.
Legend has it that Sara was the black servant of Mary Salome and Mary Jacobé, the Christian saints who gave their name to Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The three women are said to have drifted from Palestine on a boat without oars, landing on this shore. In one of the village streets, I saw a coat of arms illustrating this local legend.
As is often the case when entering a religious building, one feels in the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer a solemn calm that contrasts with the hustle and bustle of the tourist streets of the Camargue capital. You are also greeted, upon entering the church, by a welcome coolness on sunny days.
However, the temperature difference between the outside and inside of the building is nothing compared to what you feel when descending into the crypt dedicated to Saint Sara. I was not at all prepared for the heat that hits you in the face as soon as you pass through the arch leading to the semi-buried crypt. My surprise was such that, for a few moments, as I entered the crypt following many other visitors, I did not understand the source of this phenomenon.
A closer examination of the place revealed to me that the overheated atmosphere of the crypt was due to the countless votive candles lit by visitors burning all around me.
Whether you are a believer or not, I highly recommend visiting this church and especially its crypt during your next vacation in Camargue. In my opinion, it is the most memorable experience one can have on site. I was in for more surprises as I queued to approach the statue of Saint Sara, admire it, and take a photo.
First, I noticed above the candles the presence of multiple ex-votos, small engraved plaques bearing the thanks of people whose wishes had been granted. Their number testified to the miracles that the traveling people had attributed to their patron saint over the years.
I also observed that many visitors coming to pay their respects in front of the statue of the Black Virgin did not hesitate to touch the fabric of her richly embroidered robe, even to caress the ebony face of the statue. I had never before witnessed such gestures of fervor in a Catholic church.
In the very particular atmosphere of this crypt, filled with visitors, dark and overheated, it is hard not to be overwhelmed by emotion. The statue that everyone comes to admire may seem small and frail under its many necklaces and layers of clothing… But the devotion surrounding it is immense and very clearly perceptible in these places.